An interesting place in Santos away from the beaches — especially if you have kids at home, or anyone who enjoys a bit of archaeology.
One small catch: Portuguese will definitely help.
Engenho dos Erasmos is the ruin of one of the oldest buildings in Brazil. A sugar mill was built here back in 1534.
In those days sugar was incredibly expensive — its value was sometimes compared to gold. Because of that, the mill was constantly attacked by pirates and corsairs trying to steal it.
Meanwhile, poorer people would sometimes blacken their teeth to imitate tooth decay — because having cavities meant you could afford sugar and therefore looked wealthy.
These are just a few of the facts Leo and I learned during the tour.
The mill operated until the 18th century, but as sugar prices eventually dropped, production stopped. The building was abandoned, and residents from nearby neighborhoods began taking its stones to build their own houses.
Today the site is a national heritage monument and part of University of São Paulo.
The university received the ruins in 1958, which ultimately saved them from disappearing completely. Archaeological research continued here for decades, and in 2004 the site finally opened to the public.
During the tour we watched a short film about the archaeological work done here. It was fascinating to see how excavations actually happen in real life.
At this site archaeologists discovered 19 human skeletons. Analysis showed that 17 belonged to Indigenous people and two to Africans — a small but telling glimpse into the realities of the colonial period.
The tours are led by archaeologists themselves, which makes them especially interesting. They share plenty of stories you won’t find in guidebooks and patiently answer even the most random questions.
Leo, of course, came prepared.
He brought along ammonites that he found during a hike in Georgia a few years ago and still carefully keeps at home. Naturally, he proudly presented them to the archaeologists.
There’s also a small exhibition on the grounds with information about the history of the site and about Santos in general.
You can see various everyday objects discovered during the excavations.
In addition to regular visits, the site also hosts events: concerts, birdwatching walks, and educational activities for kids during school holidays. We actually came for one of those.
During the winter holidays they organized a fantastic workshop where children made dinosaur footprints and fossils out of plaster.
This is Leo’s treasure:
Pure excitement.
The kids made everything from scratch — mixing the plaster, shaping the fossils, and finally painting them. Leo’s partner in crime was a boy named Felipe. They got along perfectly and spent the rest of the day running around together.
Too bad he lives quite far from us.
After being suspiciously well-behaved for most of the excursion, the boys eventually started running around the ruins like little maniacs.
While the plaster was drying, everyone gathered in a small concert hall where we listened to a short lecture and watched a film.
I was honestly impressed by Leo’s bravery. In a full room he raised his hand, told everyone that he also had ancient artifacts he had discovered himself, and proudly showed them to the lecturer and anyone else who wanted to see.
I definitely wouldn’t have been that confident at his age.
Meanwhile, I spent most of the time making sure Eva didn’t fall into any ancient archaeological pit. Still, it was really interesting.
Practical information
The site is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9:00 to 16:00. At the entrance they record visitor information, so it’s best to bring some kind of photo ID (or at least a copy).
If it rains, the site may be closed.
For regular tours you don’t need to register in advance. Groups larger than 10 people should book ahead. For special events, registration is usually required.
Entrance is free, and all visits are guided.
Address: Rua Alan Ciber Pinto, 96.
History feels very different when it’s not just something you read about, but something you can walk through, touch, and explore with your kids running around the ruins.
If you’re looking for something in Santos that isn’t another beach walk, this place is absolutely worth a visit.
Especially if you have curious kids… or a small archaeologist at home.
Tchau!